Oven Temperature Quick Tip

Hungarian Beef Stew

Serves 6

Do not substitute hot, half-sharp, or smoked Spanish paprika for the sweet paprika in the stew (see our recommended brands at right), as they will compromise the flavor of the dish. Since paprika is vital to this recipe, it is best to use a fresh container. We prefer chuck-eye roast, but any boneless roast from the chuck will work. Cook the stew in a Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid. (Alternatively, to ensure a tight seal, place a sheet of foil over the pot before adding the lid.) The stew can be cooled, covered tightly, and refrigerated for up to 2 days; wait to add the optional sour cream until after reheating. Before reheating, skim the hardened fat from the surface and add enough water to the stew to thin it slightly. Serve the stew over boiled potatoes or egg noodles.

1	(3 1/2- to 4-pound) boneless beef chuck-eye roast , trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes (see note)
	Salt
1/3	cup sweet paprika (see note)
1	(12-ounce) jar roasted red peppers , drained and rinsed (about 1 cup)
2	tablespoons tomato paste
3	teaspoons white vinegar
2	tablespoons vegetable oil
4	large onions , diced small (about 6 cups)
4	large carrots , peeled and cut into 1-inch-thick rounds (about 2 cups)
1	bay leaf
1	cup beef broth , warmed
1/4	cup sour cream (optional; see note)
	Ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 325 degrees. Sprinkle meat evenly with 1 teaspoon salt and let stand 15 minutes. Process paprika, roasted peppers, tomato paste, and 2 teaspoons vinegar in food processor until smooth, 1 to 2 minutes, scraping down sides as needed.
2. Combine oil, onions, and 1 teaspoon salt in large Dutch oven; cover and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions soften but have not yet begun to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. (If onions begin to brown, reduce heat to medium-low and stir in 1 tablespoon water.)
3. Stir in paprika mixture; cook, stirring occasionally, until onions stick to bottom of pan, about 2 minutes. Add beef, carrots, and bay leaf; stir until beef is well coated. Using rubber spatula, scrape down sides of pot. Cover pot and transfer to oven. Cook until meat is almost tender and surface of liquid is ½ inch below top of meat, 2 to 21/2 hours, stirring every 30 minutes. Remove pot from oven and add enough beef broth so that surface of liquid is ¼ inch from top of meat (beef should not be fully submerged). Return covered pot to oven and continue to cook until fork slips easily in and out of beef, about 30 minutes longer.
4. Skim fat off surface; stir in remaining teaspoon vinegar and sour cream, if using. Remove bay leaf, adjust seasonings with salt and pepper, and serve.

Recipe Testing

Skipping the Sear, but Not the Flavor Most stews begin by browning meat on the stovetop to boost flavor. They also call for lots of added liquid. Our recipe skips the sear and goes into a moderate 325-degree oven. Though this relatively low temperature can’t compare with the sizzling heat of a 500-degree skillet, over time, the dry top layer of meat will reach 300 degrees—the temperature at which the meat begins to brown, forming thousands of new flavor compounds. But only the top of the meat will brown; due to the surrounding liquid, the submerged part of the meat can’t rise above the boiling point of water, or 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

RISING ABOVE IT ALL

Even at a relatively low oven temperature, our method still triggers browning—but only on the “dry” part of the meat above the liquid.

Recipe Testing

Smooth Spice Solution The large quantity of paprika in authentic Hungarian goulash can turn it gritty. Here are two solutions.

COMMERCIAL CONVENIENCE

Hard-to-find Hungarian paprika cream is a smooth blend of paprika and red bell peppers.

HOMEMADE SOLUTION

We created our own quick version by pureeing dried paprika with roasted red peppers and a little tomato paste and vinegar.

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Gadgets for the Ultimate Brunch

Pyrex Grip-Rite 5-Quart Mixing Bowl - Model Number: 1078616; Price: $11.49

This sturdy, heavy, wide, tempered-glass bowl with silicone strips on the base gripped the counter so firmly that we didn’t need to hold it when mixing cookie dough with a hand mixer. Its teardrop shape formed a spout that poured pancake batter smoothly, and the bowl is microwave-safe (though not intended for use on the stove as a double boiler or under a broiler). Its innovative features are an upgrade from the classic glass Pyrex bowl.

Chef’s Choice WafflePro Express - Model: 840; Price: $69.95

This waffle iron rapidly and reliably rolled out batches of waffles, taking less than 3 minutes to make each one and producing a last waffle that was the same as the first. The easy to read display had six settings, with 1 the lightest and 6 the darkest, and two texture settings, with quick bake for a crisp outside and soft inside or a slower bake for even texture throughout. The insulated handle and stay-cool casing were nice safety features. This model also indicates doneness by a light and beeping, ensuring that you know when the waffles are ready.

Chicago Metallic Muffin Top Pan - Model Number: NS51; Price: $13.95

This pan contains 6 cups that are only 1/2 inch deep but 4 inches in diameter. We found that each cup takes the same amount of batter as a cup in a standard muffin pan and that the baking time is cut by two minutes. Of course, this means that you will have to bake your muffins in batches (or buy two pans), but they are definitely worth the wait.

KitchenAid 5-Speed Blender - Model Number:  KSB580; Price:  $109.99

A large, powerful machine that aced our three key performance tests. Ice was quickly pulverized into snow, smoothies were lump-free, and hummus was perfectly consistent. Although the blades could not be removed, the entire jar is dishwasher-safe. For a cheaper version of this same blender (with a different finish), look for model # KSB560.

Hourglass Cold Brew Coffee System - Model: HG001; Price: $69.95

We recommend the Hourglass Coffee Maker for those people who prefer a milder, smooth, less bitter coffee.  Though it takes considerably longer to brew and requires more ground coffee per ounce than traditional drip coffee makers the coffee extract can be conveniently refrigerated for up to two weeks, which minimizes waste.

Zojirushi Water Boiler and Heater - Model:  CD-WBC30; Price:  $99.00

It wasn’t fast, but this model had the highest capacity (4 liters) and held water at a designated temperature for up to 10 hours.  The cylindrical shape and removable lid made it a breeze to fill and clean.  The dispense button made it easy to get hot water without having to lift a full kettle.  This model was the only one with an insulated body that remained only warm to the touch.  The easy-to-read digital thermometer display, auto shut off safety, and clear level meter on this model leaves little else to be desired.

Whipped Butter

Can whipped butter be substituted for stick butter in recipes for baked goods?

Whipped butter is made by incorporating air into butter. Manufacturers do this to increase the butter’s spreadability, especially for slathering on toast. Adding air increases the volume of the butter, not the weight. In other words, a 4-ounce stick of butter measures 1/2 cup in volume, and 4 ounces of whipped butter measures 1 cup. We decided to compare unsalted whipped butter and unsalted stick butter in our Glazed Butter Cookies, Classic Pound Cake, and Classic Vanilla Buttercream.

Tasters found the cookies to be nearly identical and even slightly preferred the whipped-butter version for its “crispier” and “flakier” texture. The same held true for the pound cake. Although the butter for each cake was creamed for exactly the same time—5 minutes—some tasters deemed the cake made with whipped butter to be “lighter,” “fluffier,” and “more tender.” The buttercream was a different story. While the stick butter produced a fluffy, off-white frosting, the whipped-butter frosting was foamy, with an intense yellow color and a “plasticlike” texture.

So-unsalted whipped butter makes a fine substitute for unsalted stick butter in baked goods, but do not make the swap in uncooked applications, such as frosting. And remember to make the substitutions based on weight, not volume. A standard tub of whipped butter weighs 8 ounces, equal to two sticks of butter.

America’s Test Kitchen: Season 10 Now Airing!

This year marks the 10th anniversary of ATK, and new episodes of season 10 are now airing. Use our station finder to see when America’s Test Kitchen will air in your hometown. If you miss an episode, you can watch it online at www.AmericasTestKitchen.com.

Cold Vermont Weekend

One of our Randall Linebacks that we hope to breed.

Last weekend was bitter cold, with temperatures well below zero at night. We kept the wood cookstove going all day as well as the fireplaces. It was too icy to ride horses in the woods and too cold for hunting — the rabbits were probably holed up anyway. But Adrienne did cook an excellent New England Boiled Dinner using our own brisket for homemade corned beef and Caroline made a delicious chocolate cake. Who doesn’t like winter?

A young Black Angus -- just arrived last week.

Dakota, the Appaloosa, is the leader of the pack. (Left)

It was about 10 degrees all day; the thick coats and a barn overhang keeps them warm.

A large moon was still hanging over the valley early Sunday.

The Green River really is green in winter.

The frozen pond is now perfect for skating.

It was zero degrees when I snapped this shot; colder earlier.

Best Blueberry Muffins

Introducing ATK’s newest team member, Yvonne and her Best Blueberry Muffin recipe

Makes 12 muffins.

If buttermilk is unavailable, substitute 3/4 cup plain whole-milk or low-fat yogurt thinned with 1/4 cup milk.

Lemon-Sugar Topping
1/3	cup sugar (2 1/3 ounces)
1 1/2	teaspoons finely grated zest from 1 lemon
Muffins
2	cups fresh blueberries, picked over
1 1/8	cups sugar plus 1 teaspoon
2 1/2	cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 1/2	teaspoons baking powder
1	teaspoon table salt
2	large eggs
4	tablespoons unsalted butter , melted & cooled slightly
1/4	cup vegetable oil
1	cup buttermilk
1 1/2	teaspoons vanilla extract

Instructions

1. FOR THE TOPPING: Stir together sugar and lemon zest in small bowl until combined; set aside.
2. FOR THE MUFFINS: Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray standard muffin tin with nonstick cooking spray. Bring 1 cup blueberries and 1 teaspoon sugar to simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, mashing berries with spoon several times and stirring frequently, until berries have broken down and mixture is thickened and reduced to ¼ cup, about 6 minutes. Transfer to small bowl and cool to room temperature, 10 to 15 minutes.
3. Whisk flour, baking powder, and salt together in large bowl. Whisk remaining 11/8 cups sugar and eggs together in medium bowl until thick and homogeneous, about 45 seconds. Slowly whisk in butter and oil until combined. Whisk in buttermilk and vanilla until combined. Using rubber spatula, fold egg mixture and remaining cup blueberries into flour mixture until just moistened. (Batter will be very lumpy with few spots of dry flour; do not overmix.)
4. Following photos below, use ice cream scoop or large spoon to divide batter equally among prepared muffin cups (batter should completely fill cups and mound slightly). Spoon teaspoon of cooked berry mixture into center of each mound of batter. Using chopstick or skewer, gently swirl berry filling into batter using figure-eight motion. Sprinkle lemon sugar evenly over muffins.
5. Bake until muffin tops are golden and just firm, 17 to 19 minutes, rotating muffin tin from front to back halfway through baking time. Cool muffins in muffin tin for 5 minutes, then transfer to wire rack and cool 5 minutes before serving.

Recipe Testing

When More Isn’t Better To boost berry flavor in a muffin, simply adding more blueberries isn’t the answer. With too many in the mix, the berries sink to the bottom, weighing the muffin down.

WEIGHED DOWN

Making Muffins with Blueberry Flavor Through and Through

1. MAKE BERRY JAM
Cook half of fresh blueberries into thick jam to concentrate their flavor and eliminate excess moisture.

2. ADD FRESH BERRIES
Stir 1 cup of fresh blueberries into batter to provide juicy bursts in every bite.

3. PORTION BATTER
Scoop batter into muffin pans, completely filling cups.

4. ADD JAM TO BATTER
Place 1 teaspoon of cooled berry jam in center of each batter-filled cup, pushing it below surface.

5. SWIRL INTO BATTER
Using chopstick or skewer, swirl jam to spread berry flavor throughout.

Letter from Vermont – January 28, 2010

From the desk of Christopher Kimball
Order Your Copy of The Complete America’s Test Kitchen TV Show Cookbook and receive the 2010 season DVD boxed set free
Photos of Kimball Farm Over the Holidays
Antique Cookware Photos

Dear Home Cook,

I spent the week between Christmas and New Year’s rabbit hunting with Tom, president of the Old Rabbit Hunter’s Association, and my 14-year old son, Charlie. The first day was all browns and grays—there was no snow on the ground—but then it got colder and we had snow. Charlie finally got his first rabbit (see photos of our farm over the holidays) in the middle of a snowstorm but afterward we ran across one of the smartest, wiliest rabbits in Vermont. He took off up the hill and down the other side. He popped out from a stone wall and Charlie shot but missed. Then he ran Tom’s dog, Bernadette, all over the backside of the hill, turning, backtracking, and running in circles. Then he popped out for a peek but we missed again. The last sight I had of him was running flat out back into the woods. He beat us fair and square, including Bernadette, who took two days to recover.

Adrienne and I were invited to dinner recently and one of the guests posed the following question, “Push a cork into an empty wine bottle. Okay, how do you get the cork out of the bottle without breaking the bottle? You can only use whatever tools are on the dining table.” I suggested something about lighting a fire in the bottle (the old hard-boiled egg trick) but that wasn’t it. Maybe floating the cork up to the neck with wine from another bottle and…nope. He finally demonstrated how to do it and it really works-no gimmicks. Want to see how it is done? Just watch my YouTube video.

Our best-selling cookbook this fall was The Complete America’s Test Kitchen TV Show Cookbook which contains all of our recipes, taste tests, and equipment reviews from 10 years of the public television show. It is over 600 pages long, contains more than 500 recipes, and is the result of many thousands of hours of kitchen work. It also contains all of the recipes from the current 2010 season. I can offer you a copy of this comprehensive volume for just $29.95, 25 percent off the cover price. That works out to be about $3 per year of work, a pretty good bargain. Plus, I’ll also send you a free 4-disc DVD boxed set of the 2010 TV show season (the regular price of the DVD set is $39.95). Order your cookbook and DVD set today!

Caroline, our 19-year-old, decided to spend the night up at our small hunting cabin in single digit temperatures. She hauled up two loads of wood in her backpack, banked the small woodstove, and had a warm, comfortable night of it. Then we got almost 3 feet of snow toward the end of vacation, and that means out come the snowshoes. It looks like it is going to be an old-fashioned Vermont winter.

I have spent a lot of time researching 19th century cookware lately and have come across two items that I really like. The first is the Combined Pitcher, Can-Opener Holder. It looks like a beer mug. You slip a can of condensed milk or similar item inside, close the top, and a hinge on top of the mug punctures the top of the can. You can then pour out the contents using the pitcher handle. Great idea! The other item is the Crown Fryer, which is a deep skillet with a wire basket that sits in it, suspended by two upright flanges. It’s great for shallow frying. Good ideas from our past. (View photos of unusual antique cookware.)

As for cooking, I made the Cook’s Illustrated Cassoulet for Christmas dinner and loved it. I also made the Ricotta Cheesecake, which is both easy and fabulous, and during our week of vacation Adrienne and I cooked out of our freezer, making brisket, pork roast, and a huge 15-pound ham from one of our pigs. I also whipped up the Lemon Cake fromCook’s that is just about to die for (the recipe was featured in the 2008 season of the TV show and is in The Complete America’s Test Kitchen TV Show Cookbook).

Since politics seems to dominate conversations these days, I thought that you might appreciate this story from Allen Foley, author of What the Old-Timer Said:

“Would you tell us, my friend, how it happens you’re a Republican?” asked the chairman.

“I’d be glad to,” said the Vermonter. “Two reasons only. In the first place I come from Vermont. And in the second place my father was a Republican before me.”

“That is a very poor reason for being a Republican,” the chairman said, “a very poor reason indeed. Suppose your father had been a horse thief?”

“I reckon in that case,” replied the Vermonter, “I’d been a Democrat!”

I leave you with a description of a Sardinian sheep’s milk cheese that you will find highly unusual. It is called casu marzu, which translates as “rotten cheese.” It is riddled with insect larvae that are deliberately introduced into the cheese to provide an advanced level of fermentation and to break down fats. Here is the truly revolting part: The larvae appear as translucent white worms, 8 millimeters long. Ready for this? When disturbed, the worms can launch themselves for distances up to 6 inches! The citation went on to say, “Some people clear the larvae from the cheese before consuming and others do not.” Think that I would stand at least 6 inches away!

On that note, enjoy the New Year, and I hope that you get to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.

Cordially,

Christopher Kimball
Founder and Editor
America’s Test Kitchen

Chicken Broths

Most commercial chicken broths are dreadful, “fowl” concoctions. So what is the time-pressed home cook to do?

Rare is the cook who has the time for the slowly simmered perfection of homemade chicken stock. The rest of us head to the soup aisle of the local supermarket to make do with some permutation of commercially prepared chicken broth. But truth be told, it could take nearly as long just to choose from the confusing array of offerings: Alongside the standard metal cans of broth and the dehydrated bouillon powders sit dozens of broths sporting “aseptic” packaging (resealable paper cartons) and glass jars filled with gloppy “base” (chicken broth reduced to a concentrated paste). Add organic, low-sodium, and gourmet-shop varieties to the mix, and the number of options quickly becomes overwhelming.An honest chicken broth distinguished by its chickeny flavor and hearty aroma.

So what chicken broth product should you reach for when you haven’t got time for homemade? We recommend choosing a mass-produced, lower-sodium brand—and check the label for evidence of mirepoix ingredients. (The best-tasting brands get help from vegetables, a glutamic compound, or both.)

And the winner is:

Swanson Certified Organic Free Range Chicken Broth

We’re not ones to jump on the organic bandwagon for its own sake; the proof’s in the taste. Swanson’s newest broth won tasters over with “very chickeny, straightforward, and honest flavors,” a hearty aroma, and restrained “hints of roastiness.”

Jamie Oliver Flavour Shaker

We put this product to the test to see if it can crush spices as easily as it claims.

Developed by British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver to crush, grind, and mix an array of ingredients, the dishwasher-safe Flavour Shaker ($29.95) is akin to an enclosed mortar and pestle: You open up the plastic cup, put in whole garlic cloves or spices, close it tight, and shake. Thanks to a heavy Ping-Pong-sized ceramic ball rolling around inside, the ingredients quickly break down. Without much effort, we were able to grind cumin and mustard seeds, crack lots of pepper, and create 1/4 cup of salad dressing (first pulverizing garlic, then adding oil and vinegar). We recommend this tool for easy spice crushing and quick dressings.

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Where To Shop:  www.cutleryandmore.com (item #JT1100EXP)