Orange Snow

The Victorians loved “snow” desserts which simply meant thickening almost anything, often fruit juice, with gelatin. (Gelatin was originally made from “isinglass,” essentially the bladders of sturgeon, and then, later on, Irish moss which is a form of seaweed that was washed and dried until it turned white. (Named after Ireland where it originated.) Of course, calf’s feet could also be used to make gelatin.

This recipe is based on one I found in the Boston Globe from 1896. I use much less gelatin although it is hard to compare today’s gelatin to the thickening power of what Fannie Farmer may have used over a century ago. It makes a fresh, light dessert. Our kids love it and so do I.

ORANGE SNOW

I prefer to make it with fresh-squeezed orange juice for a very light, refreshing dessert. Note that the egg whites will lose their shape and structure as they are gently whisked into the fruit juice. This is not a mistake.

2 3/4 cups fresh chilled orange juice, plus 2 teaspoon zest (fresh-squeezed juice preferred)

1/4 cup lemon juice, plus 1/2 teaspoon zest

1 cup sugar, plus 1 teaspoon (for whipping egg whites)

1/2 ounce powdered gelatin (2 envelopes)

3 cups boiling water

2 egg whites, whipped to soft peak

Pinch salt

8 to 10 wine glasses for serving.

 

1. Combine citrus juice and zest with 1 cup sugar and whisk until sugar is almost completely dissolved and sprinkle gelatin over. Let stand 5 minutes. Add 3 cups boiling water, stir. Strain and chill to 45 degrees; mixture should just begin to set up. (This will take some time, up to an hour depending on your kitchen and the bowl you use.)

2. Beat egg whites and salt until very soft peaks start to form (peaks should slowly lose shape when whisk is removed). Add 1 teaspoon sugar and continue to beat until soft peaks have formed (and hold their shape). Add egg white mixture to gelatin mixture and fold whites in gently with whisk until incorporated. (This may look ugly as you fold — don’t worry!) Transfer to mold or wine glasses and chill.

Serves 8 to 10

Published in: on April 10, 2009 at 7:03 pm  Comments (5)  

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5 CommentsLeave a comment

  1. Interestingly, since gelatin is primarily collagen, you could also boil bones to make your own (e.g. the “jelly” that forms after boiling chicken carcasses and letting the stock cool).

  2. Swim bladder, not urinary bladder.

  3. How wonderful to find your blog! I am a Swedish fan and for many years I have been using Food’s Illustrated extensively in my work as a food writer (giving due credit of course).

    I’d just like to point out that the substance used as a thickener found in Irish moss (carrageen) is not gelatin (a protein) but a polysaccharide (just like agar).

    Looking forward to follow this blog!

  4. Sorry! Cook’s Illustraded (it is almost 02.00 in the morning here.)

  5. Found your blog via your Twitter page. Hats to your embracing all kinds of media, Chris. Also, I can’t wait to try Orange Snow. Looks delicious. Thanks.


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